But in modern perfume creation, hawthorn’s recreated synthetically - adding freshness and a sparkle to several well-known and a raft of gorgeous niche creations. By Kilian Cruel Intentions Dior Dune This yummiest of fruits originates from Central Mexico (‘guacamole-land’!). There are other heady, rich, sweet flowers that can be used to add magic to perfumery, though. I'm vegetarian and always looking for new recipes. (Almost all fougère fragrances are targeted at men, by the way.). Marshmallow isn’t just a smell.

Dior J’Adore L’Or Why spend a fortune on perfume or cologne when you can make your own for cheap. Mostly, ‘water’ in fragrance ingredient terms has come to mean an oceanic, salty/seawater vibe – which is actually recreated through the use of a complicated blend of synthetics. Put it with frangipani or vanilla, though, and their mutual sweetness comes out…  (If you were to look under a microscope, vanilla essential oil actually contains a little heliotropin in its make-up.) I’d use more of it except that citrus fruit essential oils are restricted these days, and I almost always want to get some grapefruit in there too. To paraphrase Shakespeare, jatamansi by another name would smell as sweet – and it’s got plenty of those other names: nard, spike, muskroot, tapaswini and sumbul are just some of the other words used for this ingredient. But as with many ‘unlikely’ perfume ingredients, add it in the teensiest dose, and hemlock can add depth and intrigue.

A stunner, which deserves to be better known (and more widely-used). Jo Malone London Tuberose As well as occurring naturally, though, benzyl alcohol may also be chemically produced from petrochemical sources. Juicy Couture Juicy Couture

Say ‘cashmeran’ and somehow you know it’s going to be soft, smooth, almost snuggly. Here’s the science bit:  1,3-Benzodioxole-5-carbaldehyde, piperonyl aldehyde, 3,4-methylenedioxybenzaldehyde and piperonal are all names for heliotropin. Elizabeth Arden Green Tea Camellia But the ingredient perfumers weave, mostly into floral fragrances, is generally a synthetic replica.

Hermès Terre d’Hermès

Do you hate it? Guerlain Insolence Both are lovely, but the poodle mostly just hops and jumps. A little bit rubbery, sometimes. Reply Bond No. But nowadays, synthetic musks have widely replaced ambrette, on grounds of its priciness. Intoxicating, hallucinogenic, life-threatening plants – yes, truly – angel’s trumpet (a.k.a. (Not only was black pepper ground onto food, though:  it found its way into spells and was used as an amulet to protect against disease and other threats. Chloé Love Chloé it actually stops minor wounds bleeding.) Van Cleef & Arpels Cologne Noir, Rich, floral, green, heady:  like burying your nose in springtime itself. Waxy, grapefruity. Hints of tobacco, too, or the whiff of burning leaves in winter. Pour the perfume into your bottle, use a funnel if you need to. (Nectarine goes particularly well with fruity notes, actually.) ), Also known as olibanum, frankincense is actually a resin from the Boswellia sacra tree, which grows in the Dhofar area of Oman, as well as Yemen. Citral is pure ‘freshness’, and used for that effect. Edelweiss does make an appearance in a couple of Swiss Army fragrances – but it’s there, we suspect, more to make a link that evokes the wide open spaces of Switzerland than for the note itself. Marc Jacobs Blush. Where she touched the ground, beautiful iris flowers grew out of her footprints. In common with many contemporary fragrance ingredients, jatamansi – or spikenard, to give it a more familiar name – was originally used in incense, as an element of sacred Roman, Indian, Hebrew and Egyptian ceremonies. Hermès Eau d’Orange Verte Outside perfumery, the resin’s a handy herbal remedy – good for everything from bronchitis and coughs to healing wounds and scars.


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